Men's Clothing Guidelines
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Men's Clothing Guidelines
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This list is intended as a guide to assembling a reasonably accurate kit for a Highland man circa the year 1745. It is not the last word on the subject - there are probably sources for patterns or ready-made items that are not listed. Please see the Suppliers List for other sources.
We recognize that few, if any, people will ever achieve the "Most Accurate" level in all areas of their kit. This page is designed to provide a "Good, Better, Best" structure so that you will have an idea of what will get you in the door with a reasonably good outfit, as well as goals to strive for as you seek to improve your impression.
| Item | Most Accurate | Good | Minimum Acceptable | Unacceptable | Sources |
| Bonnet | wool fabric - sewn wool yarn - knitted hand-dyed indigo blue silk-ribbon cockade |
commercial dye process wool-ribbon cockade |
good quality wool blend poly/rayon ribbon on temporary basis (1st year) |
modern beret w/ leather sweatband pom-poms poly-rayon ribbon |
See "Bonnets" paper and knitting
instructions; ask Dan Gilbert for suppliers of knit bonnets • Barkertown Sutlers • Wooded Hamlet (ribbon) |
| Belt | single-thickness leather, 1.5-3" wide russet, natural, brown or black brass, pewter or iron/steel buckle in period shape |
split-grain leather chrome buckle cut decoration |
• G. Gedney Godwin • Jas. Townsend • Tandy Leather |
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| Leine (shirt) | wool, fustian, linen, linsey-woolsey cloth-covered or thread-covered buttons of antler, wood, bone 1-2" band collar |
cotton/linen blend horn or wood buttons collar turned down to 1-2" |
cotton muslin wood buttons |
rayon, polyester, unbleached cotton Ren-faire or pirate shirts (lace-front with metal grommets) |
• J.P. Ryan shirt pattern(adjust cuffs & collar to 1-2") • Barkertown Sutlers • Calpooia Traders |
| Trews | wool tartan fly- or fall-front |
wool blend fabric | ditto | obvious synthetic blends cotton flannel |
• Barkertown Sutlers |
| Plaid | wool tartan, 2 pieces min. 27" wide, sewn side-by-side | wool tartan, one piece, min. 60" wide | good quality wool/poly blend | cotton obvious synthetic blends |
• see Suppliers List |
| Sporran | brass or drawstring closure leather (deer, elk, cow) brown |
see sporran paper | Bee-bo Bear (Smoke & Fire product), smooth side in, moosehide | animal-mask sporrans modern commercial sporrans chrome yellow or other modern colors |
• sporran paper • Tom McElroy |
| Tartan Socks | tartan wool sock paper construction |
tartan wool "quick and dirty" construction |
good wool blend | cotton flannel obvious synthetic blends |
• Barkertown Sutlers |
| Garters | wool ribbon / tape silk ribbon leather garters w/ buckles |
cotton ribbon / tape | poly satin ribbon | • Wooded Hamlet • Townsend • Godwin |
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| Stockings or cut hose | 100% wool, hand-knit to period pattern cut hose, solid or tartan(see sock paper for construction) |
machine-knit wool or cotton stockings over the knee | good wool blend | modern socks(below knee) striped socks(documented only for C18th sailors) modern tights cut hose: cotton flannel, obvious synthetic blends |
• Kannik's Korner Accessories pattern • Godwin • Port Tobacco Merchants • Barkertown Sutlers |
| Shoes | hand-made, squared or semi-round toe, 1/2" heel straight last pewter, steel, brass buckles or ties w/ leather thong for more common person(see Penicuick drawings) brown or black; rough side out probably more common for working class |
Fugawee "Ligonier" or equivalent; hand-made, machine stitching, metal nails | plain black modern shoes may be worn for first year (except juried events), but pampooties are cheap and preferable | combat boots modern shoes Ren-faire boots Smoke & Fire gillies |
• Fugawee Corporation • Godwin • some Civil War sutlers |
| Pampooties (hide shoes) | sheepskin, deerskin (with or without hair) bare feet also accurate, if practical at the site |
cowhide, sheepskin (without hair) | center-seamed moccasins with tops trimmed off or tucked in | yellow, obviously chrome-dyed leather sneakers other moccasins modern shoes Ren-faire "Celtic shoes" Smoke & Fire gillies |
Also see Pampooties paper • Lucas type 3 or 4 shoe • Irish pampootie |
| Kilt pin | straight iron, steel, brass, bone, antler or wood, bodkin | clan brooches penannulars |
• Tom McElroy • Philip Cromwell |
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| Waistcoat | tartan wool solid-color wool, linsey or linen wool, linsey or linen lining hand-sewn cut short to wear with plaid or trews, longer to wear with breeches |
machine-sewn with hand finishing | cotton lining, completely machine-sewn linen that can pass for hard tartan |
obvious synthetic blends Ren-faire leather doublets & similar |
• Barkertown Sutlers (tartans) • Townsend (solid colors) • Janice Ryan waistcoat pattern |
| Coat | tartan or solid-color wool linsey-woolsey linen lining cut short to wear with plaid or trews; longer for wear with breeches |
wool lining | cotton lining; wool blends | obvious synthetic blends | • Barkertown Sutlers • Janice Ryan 1750s coat pattern (cut shorter) |
| Gloves/Mittens | 100% wool yarn - knitted leather, hand-sewn |
plain or rag wool mittens or gloves, no leather | obviously modern or synthetic mittens or gloves | • Port Tobacco Merchants • Godwin |
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| Neck stock | leather, linen, silk stock silk or linen cravat (square or rectangle scarf) for common impression neckerchief can be 35" square or 60"x6" |
cotton-linen blend | cotton muslin | • Godwin • Townsend |
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| Hats | black or brown cocked (aka tricorn) or slouch hat (low, round brim) for
Lowlanders brown, natural, grey or blue knitted Monmouth caps (bog bodies) |
modern stocking caps "deer tails" or other hats with animal tails |
• Townsend |
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| Breeches | wool, linen, linsey, leather metal buttons with matching metal buckles OR tied legs (seen frequently in Penicuick drawings and bog bodies) fall- or fly-front, though in mid-C18th, fly-front is more common |
cotton canvas, cotton duck, cotton/linen blend | • Townsend • Godwin • Barkertown Sutlers • Druid's Oak • Period Impressions "French Fly" breeches pattern |
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| Jewelry | for juried events- rings: plain silver or gold band, if any |
Iron Age 'torc" or Celtic jewelry from other periods Victorian or modern jewelry |
General Construction Techniques:
| Best | Good | Acceptable | Unacceptable | |
| Sewing, cloth | all handstitched seams and buttonholes silk, wool or linen thread (linen most common) tartans in non-clan sett |
machine-sewn hidden seams hand-stitched visible seams and buttonholes |
completely machine-sewn seams & buttonholes cotton thread |
metal grommets zippers velcro obvious clan tartans should be avoided whenever possible |
| Buttons | cloth-covered, horsehair-filled, wood or metal shanks thread-covered buttons |
metal-shanked buttons wood buttons horn buttons |
aluminum or chrome buttons stamped buttons plastic |
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| Sewing, leather (except shoes) | waxed linen thread | artificial sinew | nylon thread or monofilament |
Other links: Wrapping and Wearing the Great Kilt
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